The first question to be answered is “What the hell is valdiguié?” Friends, I’m here for you. The origins of the grape, in the past cultivated mainly in France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region, remain obscure. The name derives from any one of three gentlemen supposedly credited with its discovery and cultivation. In the South of France, the grape goes (or went) by the name gros Auxerrois. The grape named Napa Gamay in California and listed thus on many wine labels turned out to be valdiguié; the BATF forbid the use of Napa Gamay as a variety on labels in 1999. The Napa Gamay grape was believed to be the gamay of Beaujolais, but that belief was unfounded, and reference to “Gamay Beaujolais” on labels was banned in 2007.

So, under review today are two wines made from the valdiguié grape by Battuello Vineyards, founded in 1909 by Italian immigrant Matteo Battuello and now operated by the family’s fifth generation. The property in Napa Valley’s St. Helena District gradually expanded over the years, through purchase, to the present 82 acres. Winemaker is Michael Trujillo.

These wines were samples for review.

The Battuello Vineyards Valdiguié 2018, St. Helena, belies the notion that the grape produces light and light-hearted wines. The color here is dark ruby that displays a transparent magenta rim; intense aromas of black currants and blackberries are permeated by notes of lavender and licorice, loam and graphite, with exotic traces of sandalwood and allspice; there’s plenty of acidity to keep the wine vibrant and alluring on the palate, with a texture of medium weight, a quite dry effect and a finish of dusty tannins and a touch of oak. 14.5 percent alcohol. Now through 2022 or ’23. Definitely drink this wine with hearty fare. Very Good+. About $45.

The color of the Battuello Rosé of Valdiguié 2019, St. Helena, is a lovely medium copper-salmon hue with a flush of smoky topaz, yes, sort of hypnotic; the wine reveals admirable delicacy and elegance in its nuances of strawberries and raspberries, with notes of pomegranate and cranberry, melon and heather, and just a hint of flint; bright acidity lends liveliness to subtle cherry-berry flavors that unfurl touches of lilac, rose petal and blood orange; from mid-palate back, a thread of limestone minerality gives it all a crystalline spine. 12.5 percent alcohol. Bring on the cold fried chicken and deviled eggs, the cucumber and watercress sandwiches, the rabbit and duck terrine with crusty bread; or just sip as a delightful aperitif. Excellent. About $28.